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Habring Doppel 2.0


[Press Release] Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl (born 1799 in Mureck in Styria – died 1886 in Paris) hit upon the idea of a separately stoppable seconds hand in 1831, whilst searching for the first watch that could measure intervals of time. Whilst other great minds refined the mechanism over the years to follow and finally arrived at we know today as the chronograph, Winnerl’s work had laid the foundations for a more complicated chronograph: the chrono rattrapante or double (or split-seconds) chronograph.

The double chronograph gets its name from a double seconds hand anchored at the centre that during normal operation runs synchronously with the normal seconds hand. It kicks into action when the characteristic third pusher at the top left of the watch case is pressed. Whilst the chronograph’s seconds hand moves continuously, the other one can be stopped to record intermediate times. Pressing the pusher again elegantly returns the split-seconds hand to its position above the normal seconds hand.

Now, in 2012, it is again an Austrian company that has reinterpreted the double chronograph in a future-oriented design: Maria and Richard Habring aka Habring².

The technology is not completely new to the couple; after all, Richard Habring played a major role in the development of the complication when he first started out on his career as a watch designer under his mentor, Günter Blümlein. At the time, his completely new approach convinced not only his colleagues but also the patents office. The document published under the number DE4209580A depicts a hitherto unseen design of the fragile lever mechanism required to hold the rear-mounted split-seconds wheel.

One of the design’s special features is the omission of the traditional column wheel, which is not only complicated to produce but also requires complex adjustment in conjunction with a split-seconds function. However, the design, which integrated the functional module in an existing movement, went on to display the odd drawback here and there over the next 20 years. The dynamic entrepreneurial couple have taken this as an opportunity to rework the design whilst incorporating some decisive improvements. In contrast to the original patent, the Doppel 2.0 is characterised by superior service friendliness.

And so ends a 20-year chapter of consistent development and improvement. This time span is the reason why Habring² is making an exception and departing from its usual annual output of 12 units per model to produce precisely 20 Doppel 2.0 at their atelier in Völkermarkt.

Of course, the A08MR calibre has all the hallmarks of the small Austrian manufacturer in addition to the ingenious split-seconds mechanism. Accurate chronometer measurement and superior reliability are the result of small-scale manufacturing and assembly. The sub-dials have a classic east-west orientation to provide a visual counterpart to the original. The sapphire crystal base offers an unrestricted view of the manual mechanism.

Technical Specifications

Movement Habring² A08MR:

Hour, minute display, small running seconds hand; stop-seconds hand and 30-minute counter; split-seconds hand – Manual winding – Triovis fine adjustment – Escapement parts in chronometer quality – Shock-proof in accordance with DIN and NIHS – 23 jewels, 48 hours of power reserve when fully wound, 101 service-relevant individual components.

Case:
Stainless steel, 3 screwed sections – waterproof to a depth equivalent of 50 meters, Concave sapphire crystal, non-reflective coating on both sides, Double-sealed crown, sapphire crystal base – Engraved selective serial number 01 – 2012 to 20 – 2012 between the lugs at 6 o’clock.

Dial/hands:
Blue, grey or brown galvanised metal dial with silver digits, rhodanised numbers and hour indexes with Superluminova coating -Polished, rhodanised, thread hands with Superluminova coating, blued counter hands, matt-lacquered chrono seconds hand and split-seconds hand.

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Zenith Espada [Baselworld 2012]

Did I tell you of my growing ‘thing’ for Zenith?

Maybe best I keep that to myself, hey? :-)

This Espada comes in a range of styles, as you can see. Personally I like the main picture variant the best, but there are plenty of options to go around.

It’s a 40mm piece in stainless steel or steel and 18kt rose gold.

It has an AR-coated sapphire crystal, a sapphire display back and water resistance to 100 meters.

Movement is the automatic Zenith caliber 4650B El Primero.

This has 22 jewels, beats at a speedy 36,000 vph and has a power reserve of 50 hours.

Dials can be had in black, white or silver sunray, all with Rhodium or rose gold plated indices and markers.

Very nice :-)

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Breguet Tradition 7047 Tourbillon Fusee [Baselworld 2012]

You wouldn’t expect anything less than a beautiful watch from Breguet, and that’s exactly what they’ve delivered with the updated 7047 Tourbillon Fusee.

This 2012 model now comes in a 41mm 18kt rose gold case.

It has double sapphire crystals and water resistance to 30 meters.

The movement is the manual-wind Breguet caliber 569 complete with tourbillon, 43 jewels and a power reserve of 50 hours.

This features: anthracite coating; constant torque thanks to the fusee and chain transmission; titanium upper bridge with Breguet type tourbillon bar; straight-line Swiss lever escapement; Breguet titanium balance with four gold adjustment screws and Breguet silicon balance spring.

Phew!

Reference #s are 7047BR/R9/9Z.

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Tissot Heritage PR 516 [Baselworld 2012]

I’ve had a ‘modern’ PR516 Chronograph for a while now and I have to say it’s been superb: rock solid and a great everyday wear.

This version of the 516 is also ‘modern’, but stylistically harks back to Tissot designs of the 60s and 70s.

Looks great, don’t you think?

It’s a 40mm stainless steel or PVD gold piece, water resistant to 100m and powered by an ETA movement (7750 I believe).

I do like the ‘steering wheel’ in the case back – although I think the gold rotor in my version is an even nicer touch ;-)

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Panerai Luminor Tuttonero GMT [SIHH 2012]

Probably my favourite new Panerai from this year’s SIHH event.

This is the PAM 438 – Luminor Tuttonero GMT.

44m in size with a black ceramic case and bracelet.

It is water resistant to 300 meters.

Movement is the Swiss automatic Panerai in-house caliber P.9001/B with 29 jewels, GMT complication and a power reserve of 72 hours.

+1 ;-)

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Milus Herios TriRetrograde

With hands going every which but loose I think Milus should rename this Herios TriRetrograde the ‘Magnus Pike’ (look him up!).

This is a 42mm stainless steel model.

It has a domed sapphire crystal, automatic mechanical movement featuring a Milus 3838 retrograde seconds module and is available with a black or brown alligator strap.

I’m thinking perhaps the traditional ‘ten-past-ten’ hand position for watch shots isn’t doing this one any favours.

What do you think?

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Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Contemporaine Collection Excellence Platine

Wow, that name really rolls off the tongue, doesn’t it? ;-)

This upsized (from previous models in the range) 42mm piece from VC is available for just 150 discerning buyers.

Full details in the press release below.

[Press Release] Rarely have pure shapes found such an eminently suitable material. By associating the acknowledged elegance and understatement of the Patrimony Contemporaine line with the precious nature of solid platinum, the Manufacture Vacheron Constantin is revealing yet another facet of exceptional watchmaking. Governed by the same spirit of excellence, this gleaming ‘jewel box’ was bound to house a remarkable mechanical gem – and such is indeed the case with the legendary Calibre 1120, an ultra-thin self-winding movement with an excellent reputation that is entirely developed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin and also carries the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva.

Previously available exclusively in a 40 mm-diameter case, the ultra-thin self-winding model of the Patrimony Contemporaine collection finds a new field of expression meeting the expectations of connoisseurs eager to enjoy a distinctive presence on the wrist combined with undeniable elegance. With its fine, taut lines, slim silhouette and broad dial opening, this new 42 mm-diameter case fitted with a transparent back continues to display the timeless design that has earned its predecessors such enduring success.

Loyal to the design codes of all the models that have regularly the Collection Excllence Platine since 2006, this new Patrimony Contemporaine self-winding features a pure dial in finely grained sandblasted 950 platinum, discreetly bearing the inscription “PT950” between 4 and 5 o’clock. The slightly cambered outer zone is enhanced by a beaded minute circle and applied hour-markers in 18K gold. In addition to the case and crown naturally crafted in 950 platinum, the hands are also made from this precious metal. And that’s not all: secured by a 950 platinum pin buckle, the dark blue alligator leather strap is hand saddle-stitched with silk and 950 platinum threads!

The history of platinum at Vacheron Constantin goes back to 1820. Since then, the Geneva-based watch manufacturer has used this precious metal in many of its most complex and original models. While 18K gold is composed of only 75% precious metal, platinum is 95% pure. Far rarer than gold, it comes from just a few deposits scattered around the world, and mainly in South Africa. Its density and its weight are far greater than the other metals, which means it is a far more durable material. Moreover, it is not subject to oxidation and therefore does not age over the years, making it a perfect lifelong companion. Vacheron Constantin created the limited-edition Collection Excellence Platine specifically in order to highlight the distinctive qualities of this metal.

Long reserved for royalty and maharajahs, now joined by collectors and certain aficionados with refined tastes, platinum conveys a definite sense of prestige that is recognised by a distinguished elite of perceptive connoisseurs. For them, owning a Vacheron Constantin timepiece from the Collection Excellence Platine means belonging to one of the world’s most exclusive clubs – which the new Patrimony Contemporaine self-winding, issued in a limited edition of just 150, offers an additional chance to join.

Technical Specifications

Reference: 43150/000P-9684
Patrimony Contemporaine self-winding Collection Excellence Platine

Calibre: 1120, Vacheron Constantin
Stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva

Energy: Mechanical, self-winding
Movement thickness: 2.45 mm
Movement diameter: 28.40 mm (12’’’ ½)
Number of jewels: 36
Number of components: 144

Frequency: 2.75 Hz (19’800 vibrations/hour)

Indications: Hours and minutes
Power reserve: Approximately 40 hours

Case: Platinum 950
Transparent, sapphire crystal, snap-on
42 mm diameter
7.30 mm thickness

Water resistance: Tested at a pressure of 3 bar (approx.. 30 metres)

Dial: Platinum 950
Sand-blasted
« PT 950 » hallmark between 4 and 5 o’clock
Convex external zone with circular grained minute-track
Applied hour-makers in 18K white gold

Strap: Dark blue Mississippiensis alligator, hand-stitched with platinum 950 and silk, saddle-finish, large square scales
Clasp: Platinum 950 buckle, polished half Maltese cross

Limited edition of 150 pieces individually numbered.

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Hublot King Power “Dwyane Wade”

Following on from the naming of Miami Heat star ‘D-Wade’ to the position of Hublot ambassador earlier this year, the brand has now released this special limited edition King Power in his honor.

Wearing the Flash’s number ’3′ at the, err, three O’clock position (where else?), this 48mm model comes in a ceramic case.

The colour scheme is Miami Heat inspired – red/white – and the leather/rubber combo strap comes replete with cross-stitched netting.

Only 500 pieces will be available.

Well, 499 probably, as I’m sure Mr Wade gets one :-)

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Corum Admiral’s Cup Seafender 48 Deep Dive

Corum produce some beautiful pieces (witness the Golden Bridge model they made for Only Watch 2011).

Unfortunately, this 100 piece limited edition Admiral’s Cup Seafender isn’t one of them ….

Professional courtesy suggests I just give you the facts though, and I’ll let you make up your own mind on the rest.

Now where’s that ‘don’t like’ Facebook button … ;-)

This is a 48mm titanum and black PVD piece, with an 18kt rose gold bezel.

It has an AR-coated sapphire crystal and is water resistant to 1,000 meters.

Movement is the Swiss automatic Corum caliber CO947, which is COSC-certified as a chronometer.

It has 24 jewels, 28,800 vph and a power reserve of 42 hours.

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JeanRichard Aquascope Lady Night

JeanRichard continue to keep pumping them out.  This is the JeanRichard Aquascope Lady Night.

This watch is also available with a white mother of pearl dial and a white fabric strap.

Technical Specifications

CASE
Polished and satin-finished stainless steel case, aluminium bezel
Dimensions: 44.50 x 40 mm -Height: 11.85 mm
Antireflective sapphire crystal -Screwed case-back
Water-resistant to 300 meters -External bidirectional rotating bezel

MOVEMENT
JEANRICHARD movement JR1000
Self-winding -Calibre: 11 ½’’’ -Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)
Jewels: 27 – Power reserve: min. 48 hours
Functions: hour, minute, second, date

DIAL
Satin-finished sunburst effect black dial set with diamonds
Arabic numerals and indexes in black luminescent material
Rhodium coated hands with luminescent material

STRAP
Black fabric strap -Stainless steel folding buckle

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