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Ebel Brasilia Gold

[Press Release] Brasilia, the dainty watch-making gem, displays its assets with an undeniably sensual charm by adopting the glowing radiance of yellow gold to highlight its personality.

Its femininity is revealed within a rectangular case featuring soft lines that are further accentuated by the peerless comfort of the bracelet. Its face is adorned with a refined central guilloché pattern gently caressed by two faceted blue hands.

Roman numerals mark the hours, and the gaze is naturally drawn to EBEL’s initial, subtly placed at 3 o’clock and softly merging into the circular motion of time.

A gem-set version further enhances the inherent elegance of the watch with two rows of diamonds. The new Brasilia is both classic and contemporary – a perfect reflection of the dual nature of this century-old brand on which time has no hold.

Technical Specifications

Movement:
• Quartz movement manufactured in Switzerland (EBEL 976)

Case:
• Material : 18K yellow gold or 18K yellow gold set with 34 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.544 cts)
• Size: Mini: 23.7 mm
• Thickness: Mini: 7.15 mm
• Finish: full polished
• Water resistance: 5 atm
• Glass: sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides to ensure perfect readability
• Case-back: original “Brasilia” engraving

Dial:
• Silver-toned with guilloché-patterned central motif, Roman numerals
• Blue hands

Bracelet:
• Material: 18K yellow gold
• Finish: full polished
• EBEL folding clasp

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Seiko Official Timer of the IAAF World Championships Daegu 2011

A bit of ‘timely’ industry news now (geddit?) from Seiko and the World Athletic Championships in Daegu.

[Press Release] Daegu, South Korea – SEIKO is proud to be chosen as the official timer of the International Association of Athletics Federations (IAAF) World Championships from Saturday, August 27th through Sunday, September 4th, in Daegu, South Korea. SEIKO continues its dedication to the IAAF since 1985 to time and measure each and every fraction of a second, distance and height achieved by the best athletes in the world.

The SEIKO Timing Team, a team of 50 timing engineers drawn from two specialist centers in Japan and the UK, will be working hard to ensure that every time and distance is recorded correctly and securely at the IAAF World Championships in Daegu. During the course of this nine day event, the team will measure over 15,000 individual times, speeds and distances, all of which will be critical to the official results and presentation of the sport.

SEIKO has served as the official timer for 11 consecutive IAAF World Championships. The planning phase of this year’s timing operation started as soon as after the previous World Championships 2009 Berlin were over, and have been intricately thought out ever since. SEIKO is delighted to present the most technically advanced timing and measurement systems at Daegu 2011.

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Movado Bold / Coach Phoebe For Breast Cancer Awareness

More watches in aid of a good cause now.

Thankfully these are at the more affordable end of the scale than Zep :-)

Movado, and Movado partner Coach Watches have released the Movado Bold and the Coach Phoebe models in aid of Breast Cancer Awareness 2011.

The 2011 Movado BOLD Breast Cancer Awareness Watch features a black TR90 composite material/stainless steel case and scratch-resistant K1 crystal.

Its dial is detailed by a signature dot sparkling with pink crystals, and outlined in berry with matching berry hands.

The black leather strap is lined in a matching berry hue.

The case-back is etched with the Breast Cancer ribbon motif.

The watch retails for $350.00 and will be available fall 2011 through www.Movado.com, the Movado boutique at Rockefeller Center in NYC, and select Nordstrom, Saks, Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s and Tourneau stores. Movado will donate $50.00 for each watch sold to the Breast Cancer Research Foundation.

The Coach Phoebe is crafted in solid stainless steel and features a Coach Heritage logo bezel enameled in pink and a white dial with pink Coach lozenge logo and applied silver-toned hour markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock.

The polished bangle sports a detachable Coach logo charm etched with the Breast Cancer ribbon motif.

The 2011 Coach Phoebe Breast Cancer Awareness Watch will be available for $298.00 at Coach retail stores, www.coach.com and through select department stores. Coach watches will donate 20% of the proceeds from each watch sold from October 1, 2011 through December 31, 2011 to the Breast Cancer Research Foundation.

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso ‘Zep’

Jaeger-LeCoultre are celebrating their 80th anniversary this year.

In recognition of that, Swiss cartoonist ‘Zep’ has created this fantastic unique edition of the iconic JLC Reverso, featuring his character ‘Titeuf’.

This enamel and pink gold masterpiece will be auctioned on the 29th November this year, for the benefit of  the charity “Monaco Association against Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy” (the same charity benefitting from the ‘Only Watch’ auction this month).

I wish I had the funds to bid for something like this – I love it!

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Van Cleef & Arpels Timeless XL

Van Cleef & Arpels has updated its Timeless collection with three new models, entitled the ‘Timeless XL’.

As the name suggests, this is indeed an XL model, coming in at 50mmx35mm.

The range features a hand-guillochéd dial, a diamond bezel set with approximately 3.75 total carats of round brilliant cut diamonds, and a hand-stitched alligator strap fitted with an 18-carat gold buckle set with diamonds.

The Timeless XL is available in three models: 18-carat white gold with blue lacquer guilloché dial (VCARN9VB00); 18-carat white gold with white lacquer guilloché dial (VCARN9VC00); and 18-carat pink gold with white lacquer guilloché dial (VCARN9VD00).

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Urwerk UR-1001 Zeit Device

Wow.  This is definitely not your Grandfather’s pocket watch …

[Press Release] The AlTiN UR-1001 is a limited edition of 8 pieces in AlTiN treated steel with titanium elements.

Time-measuring instruments have marked significant epochs in history for millennia. Six thousand years ago, the shadows cast by obelisks in the Sumerian city of Ur revealed the passage of the sun; two thousand years ago, astronomers in ancient Greece used the Antikythera mechanism to calculate the positions of the sun, moon and planets in the heavens; and in the 18th century, John Harrison’s H4 clock enabled safe and accurate navigation by sea.

URWERK now endows the 21st century with its own epoch-defining time – or Zeit in German – measuring instrument: The UR-1001 Zeit Device. In our fast-paced lives we often describe time as ‘fleeting’ and our timepieces reflect this perception by measuring relatively short intervals – by geological or astronomical scales – i.e. seconds, minutes and hours. A few watches take a longer view and track days, months and years, some even leap years. But rarely do timepieces do justice to a universe measured in billions of years – as a true Zeit Device should.

The UR-1001 is a true Zeit Device: It is a grand über complication both measuring and quantifying the era in its entirety, from a solitary second to an astronomical millennia. Exuding force from a case seemingly carved from a block of solid metal, the UR-1001 marks the passage of time in seconds, minutes, hours, day/night, date, month, years, 100 years and all of the way to a monumental 1,000 years!

The Zeit Device houses a constellation of indications, including orbiting satellites and a comet-like flying retrograde. Dials, springs, satellites, carrousels, retrograde spiral spring were all manufactured in-house by URWERK, as were most of the components in the Zeit Device’s complications and indications.

“My journey to becoming a watchmaker began as a child in my father’s atelier, which was filled with the antique clocks that he restored and collected. That was my favourite playground and I loved being among those huge wooden objects with their rotating wheels, ticking escapements and chiming music, so it was natural I became a watchmaker. It is now 15 years since my friend Martin Frei and I created URWERK, our own horological playground in which we have developed new – both technically and visually – methods of displaying time. Until today we have always been constrained by the size of the wristwatch. However, now, with the Zeit Device, we have allowed ourselves a carte blanche and created a larger playground for our imaginations . . . and then filled it with all of our toys complications and indications.” Felix Baumgartner.

Hour Satellite Complication. The Hour Satellite Complication of the Zeit Device is a ‘flying’ design in that there is no top bridge supporting the carrousel. The mechanism requires a bottom support only, which allows maximum appreciation of the satellite hour and retrograde minute complications. The complication comprises a rotating central carrousel supporting three hour satellites, each cubic satellite marked with four hour numbers on their four faces. As the carrousel turns, the satellites not telling the time rotate on their vertical axis so that their top number has the new hour ready to replace the old. Hours and minutes are able to be set backwards without affecting the calendar functions.

Retrograde Minute Hand. The Retrograde Minute Hand is fixed to a sprung ring around the circumference of the satellite complication. This ring is pushed along a guide rail by the hour satellite. A swan’s neck spring on each arm of the carrousel engages two coaxial star-cams that slide along the guide rail carrying the minute hand. When the minute hand gets to the end of the rail at 60 minutes, the star-cams trip over to release the minute hand, which springs back to zero at the start of the scale where it rendezvous with the next satellite hour. A small bar of platinum on the sprung ring acts as a counterweight to the minute hand pointer. A safety device ensures that the minute hand cannot rotate past 63 minutes, even in case of a shock.

Day Night and Power Reserve Indicator.

The Day/Night indicator is a rotating disc marked with Black Super-LumiNova for the night, white brushed-ruthenium for day and a striped mix for dusk/dawn. While useful in its own right, the Day/Night indicator comes into its own when setting the calendar mechanism to ensure that the date changes at midnight rather than midday. The Power Reserve indicator monitors the amount of power in the mainspring up to 39 hours and features a red warning zone to remind the owner when the Zeit Device needs refuelling.

Revolving Satellite Calendar. The Revolving Satellite Calendar is a original – both technically and graphically – calendar complication completely developed in-house by URWERK. Visually it is in the same family as the hour satellite complication, with months and date replacing hours and retrograde minutes. However, whereas the hours rotate across the minutes with unchanging 60-minute regularity, the month automatically adjusts the last date on the calendar complication according to whether it has 30 or 31 days. At the end of 30 day months — April, June, September and November — the date advances automatically to the 1st of the following month. The date wheel has 93 teeth and goes around in three months carrying the three-armed carousel. Mounted on the date wheel are three Maltese crosses, each corresponding to a satellite of four months at the opposite end of the date wheel. At the end of the short months, a finger on a Maltese cross intervenes to make the date wheel advance two days to the next month.

Back Side

Turning the UR-1001 over and flipping over the protective cover reveals an alternative universe of longer timescale indications to those on the front. The dominating feature through the display back is the underneath of the hour satellite complication and retrograde minute mechanism, its dark surface set off by bright ruby bearings. The Oil Change, 100-year and 1000-year are longer-term indications lying under a protective cover on the back of the Zeit Device and are driven by the operation of the movement.

Oil Change indicator. The shortest time interval measured on the back is the 5-year Oil Change indicator at centre right, which alerts the user when a service is due after three years when the dial changes from white (years one to three) to red (years three to five). This is counter is reset to zero when the timepiece is serviced.

100-year indicator. The 100-year indicator advances in 5-year increments and acts like the odometer of a car. Where a car’s odometer keeps track of the total distance number at vehicle has driven, the 100-year and 1000-year indicators of the UR-1001 register the total running time of the movement.

1000-year indicator. When the hand reaches the 100-year mark, the small pointer at the bottom of the 1000-year indicator on the left takes a small – small for the Zeit Device, but a giant leap for mankind – 100-year step upwards on its imperceptibly slow, but deliberate journey to a new millennium.

Case. The case of the UR-1001 is in AlTiN coated stainless steel. AlTiN – Aluminium Titanium Nitride – is an industrial surface treatment originally developed to reduce the wear of machine cutting tools. The very properties that make AlTiN suitable for industrial applications, e.g. increased oxidation resistance and hardness, coupled with its semi-matte black colour make it an ideal high-tech coating to protect the Zeit Device.

Martin Frei, URWERK co-founder and chief designer, explain: “To ensure the UR-1001 was both pleasing to hold and comfortable to wear, I carried a carved block of wood that I shaped and modified over months. The mock-up only took form in metal only when I was 100 per cent sure that the three-dimensional shape worked on both a tactile and visual level.”

Fine finishing. The fine finishing and decoration throughout the case, dials and components of the Zeit Device are a harmonious blend of the contemporary and the traditional, echoing URWERK’s ethos of 21st century watchmaking based on a solid foundation of the very best in traditional horology. Circular lines engraved into the top of the case give hint to the fact that the form of the Zeit Device’s case is actually a circle with cut sides. Clous de Paris guilloche on the dial provides both a rich texture and a pleasing contrast with the flat surfaces on the indications. The satellites and their hands feature diamond-cut bevels that reflect light during the day, while flush embedded white Super-LumiNova ensures legible reading of the time at night. Clous de Paris guilloche surfaces continue on the back of the timepiece and in a tip of the hat to URWERK’s home, Geneva waves are engraved on sections of the bridge supporting t he base of the Hour Satellite Complication.

ARCAP. URWERK is one of a very few watch brands – perhaps the only – making extensive use of ARCAP is their timepieces. ARCAP alloys are a proprietary group of alloys that do not contain iron and so are non magnetic. They have very high tensile strength and they are resistant to oxidation – unlike the commonly used brass that has to be plated – chemical corrosion, low temperatures and are stable under temperature changes. And compared to brass, ARCAP is more stable when machined and does not retain tension, which makes it able to be machined to higher precision. ARCAP’s advantages do not come free of charge and it wears machine tools out at a 5X higher rate than brass. In the UR-1001, the mainplate, baseplate, carrousels, satellites, dials, bridges, retrograde spiral spring and retrograde u-springs are all in ARCAP.

Winder/Display case. The combined automatic winder and display case of the Zeit Device is in polished, solid walnut with buffalo leather lining. The case can sit on a desk with the timepiece securely held (push-fit) in a vertical position with the dial side in full view. Every 10 or 15 minutes – the interval is adjustable according to whether the timepiece requires fast winding or maintaining winding – the Zeit Device is rotated 185° and slowly oscillates to rest, causing a winding rotor to charge the mainspring. Keeping the Zeit Device wound in this way minimises the necessity of having to reset the calendar functions after the movement has stopped.

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Christopher Ward C50 Malvern COSC

Hmm, here’s a tough choice.

$980 for a limited edition automatic Christopher Ward watch, or $1425 for a quartz Salvatore Ferragamo … difficult one that …

What do you think?

Available in an 200 piece run. this C50 Malvern is Christopher Ward’s first COSC certified model.

Inside the 39mm steel case you’ll find a modified ETA 2836-2 movement with a 38-hour power reserve.

The dial has a galvanic ivory finish. The strap is brown leather with a folding clasp.

You’ll have to be patient for this one though: it won’t be out until October.

Nice!

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Salvatore Ferragamo 1898 Dual Time

A funny old brand, Salvatore Ferragamo.

Representing one of a couple of forays into more ‘luxury’ timepieces by Timex, I guess this is targeted in the same way as Lexus is to the Toyota group.

Problem is the name always makes me think of those ‘designer’ suits that really no’one has ever heard of, but sound kind of posh: Giorgio Americio; Luciano Valentinove; Gianni Versmici.

You get the idea ;-)

This particular 40mm model comes in stainless steel with gold and black IP treatment.

The crystal is an AR-coated sapphire and it is water resistant to 30 meters.

Movement is the Swiss quartz Ronda caliber 6203B with big date and second timezone complications.

MSRP is $1,425.

What do you think?  Worth the extra $s, or not?

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Raymond Weil Jasmine

Moving on from this week’s episode of Guns and Ammo to something a bit more feminine now and a small snippet of Raymond Weil news, in the form of their ‘Jasmine’ collection.

The range is available in 29mm or 35mm cases, with our without diamond settings and in stainless steel or rose gold PVD.

Movements are Swiss automatic (RW2000 caliber – base ETA – with 25 jewels, 28,800 vph and a power reserve of 38 hours / RW4200 – base Sellita – with 26 jewels, 28,800 vph and a power reserve of 38 hours) or quartz.

Water resistance on all models is to 50 meters and each has a sapphire crystal.

No mention of RRP but I wouldn’t expect them to be outrageously priced.

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ArtyA Son Of A Gun

I’m sure I’ll be shot at dawn by the Watchmakers Guild for saying this (pun intended), but let me get this out straight away: I really, really do not like this watch.

Yes, I know it’s unique and I know it’s part watch, part ‘art’, and I can appreciate the skill that goes into making something like this but to me this just screams ‘all money, no class’.

Sorry.

There, I’ve said it :-)

Anyway, it is a one-off piece (1/1) and was specially made by Mr ArtyA (Yvan Arpa) for a gun/watch collector.

It features real bullets – six 6mm Flobert bullets to be exact – suspended within the case.

The copper wire is meant to signify dynamite wire.

The pun here is meant to be that bullets don’t kill, time does.

I think I’d rather somewhere threw their watch at me than bullets, wouldn’t you?

Moving swiftly on .. please stick to butterflies next time Mr ArtyA!

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