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Ulysse Nardin Classico Limited Edition Santa Maria

[Press Release] The Santa Maria, Christopher Columbus’ boldest sail merchant ship, was often endearingly called the Gallant Maria by her crew. The flagship vessel, used for the explorer’s first expedition in 1492, was regal and daring. Larger than her two sisters, La Niña and La Pinta, the Santa Maria is one of the most important ships in history for what she represented – fearlessness.

With true artistry and unparalleled precision, the Classico Limited Edition Santa Maria from Ulysse Nardin recounts this noble vessel and its story of adventure. Using the ancient and precious cloisonné technique, paired with the fine art of enameling, the stately Santa Maria is paid valiant tribute to in this masterful timepiece. Every detail has been carefully crafted by Ulysse Nardin artisans in vivid color and to exacting specifications. A backdrop of deep blue frames this glorious depiction of the ship with its proud masts and sail, a flag at its top waving freely in the wind, a splash of water coming up from the greenish blue sea to meet the deep grain of the wooden “nao”, or cargo ship.

Fearless like its namesake, the Classico Limited Edition Santa Maria is painstakingly created, requiring more than 50 working hours and 26 baking processes to complete each handmade cloisonné dial. Each dial is individually crafted by skilled enameller specialists using the refined decorative technique of cloisonné that produces an unmistakable and undeniably unique work of art. The process is a complicated mix of skill and steady hand, and is one of the most intricate artistic disciplines. Ulysse Nardin revived this lost decorative technique, which counts less than a handful of artists that are masters of the intricate skill.

The astounding aesthetic of the Classico Limited Edition Santa Maria is matched by the timepiece’s technical precision. The self-winding watch is powered by the UN caliber 815 movement that has been COSC Chronometer certified and has a power reserve of 42 hours.

The Classico Limited Edition Santa Maria joins other original and exquisite timepieces in Ulysse Nardin’s Cloisonné collection, and is available in a limited edition of 30 pieces, each in 18kt rose gold and white gold in a case measuring 40mm with AR-coated sapphire crystal and water resistance to 50 meters.

The Santa Maria stood proud as a true testament to discovery and adventure, crossing the Atlantic Ocean in a voyage that remains etched in world history. The Classico Limited Edition Santa Maria timepiece by Ulysse Nardin shares the same dedication to mastery.

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UTS 4000M GMT

Published by in UTS on May 30th, 2012 | No Comments »

A nicely chunky model from UTS.

As it should be, given this thing is water resistant to 4000m!

Yes, down to 4km underwater.

Yikes!

It’s a 45mm piece in stainless steel.

It features a trick bezel with a ceramic ball bearing locking system.

Each one is personally fabricated and tested by Nicolaus Spinner (UTS engineer/founder extraordinaire).

Movement is an automatic base ETA with GMT complication.

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Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute

[Press Release]Wilton, Conn. (May 25, 2012) – Luxury Swiss watchmaker Breitling honored the 50th anniversary of U.S. Astronaut Scott Carpenter’s voyage into Space on-board Aurora 7 with the debut of the Limited Edition Navitimer Cosmonaute timepiece at an exclusive celebration for VIPs and customers on Thurs., May 24 at their U.S. Flagship Boutique in New York.

U.S. Astronauts Scott Carpenter and Captain Mark Kelly and Russian Cosmonaute Sergey Volkov celebrated at the boutique, which was transformed into outer space in honor of the event. A 10 foot tall replica of the Aurora 7 capsule was created for the memorable evening. The walls were covered in 26 foot tall graphic images of Scott Carpenter from his voyage in 1962. Models boasted revealing, astronaut -inspired, costumes in Breitling’s signature colors. Satellite parties with a live feed from the New York boutique took also place at the Breitling Boutique in Aventura, Florida and Lewis Diamonds & Timepieces in Texas.

The event was held to commemorate May 24, 1962, when a Breitling Navitimer chronograph became the first wrist instrument to share in the conquest of space by accompanying the Aurora 7 flight. “In 1962, I saw Australian pilots wearing a Breitling Navitimer, which had a unique feature at the time – a circular slide rule – a tool used often in flight for navigation and communication. I asked Breitling to create a special version of the watch for me with a 24 hour dial so I was able to tell the time in space, whether it was day or night since it’s always dark. To have them honor me 50 years later with a custom watch in my honor is extremely special,” said Scott Carpenter.

Thierry Prissert, Breitling USA President presented Scott Carpenter with the #1 of 1,962 pieces. “We are extremely proud to have shared in this accomplishment and thrilled to celebrate Mr. Carpenter and all he has done for the Aerospace program.

It was a great privilege to present him with the watch,” said Prissert.

The Limited Edition Navitimer Cosmonaute made its debut at the event to excited crowds. The watch features manufactured movement, entirely developed and produced in house.

This 1,962-piece limited edition is distinguished by its 24-hour display, manual winding mode – two nods to the original 1962 chronograph – as well as the Aurora 7 mission insignia engraved on the case back.

The Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute watch is available for purchase at retailers throughout the United States and at the Breitling Boutiques in New York, New York and Aventura, Florida.

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Hautlence HL 2.0

A stunning evolution on an already beautiful model ..

[Press Release] The HL2.0 Collection Represents the Second Generation of Hautlence Watches

The HL 2.0 models display half-trailing jumping hours, retrograde minutes, and a power-reserve indicator. The collection also includes an automatic movement for the first time.

Constructed around the retrograde minutes function, the jumping hours mechanism consists of a 12-link chain activated by a connecting-rod/crank as in the HL collection.

The retrograde minutes are indicated on a 180° sector of the dial. An ingenious mechanism governs the movement of the assembly with a speed control that protects the components from any shocks arising from its operation.

The chain rotates the mobile bridge through 60° each hour, compensating for the effect of gravity. To provide sufficient energy, the principal barrel, wound by the automatic system, winds a second barrel, which drives the display complication.

Developed and produced by the Neuchâtel brand’s own teams, this collection is the first to offer a Manufacture mechanical movement with automatic winding. Two models are currently available, each limited to 28 pieces: the HL 2.1 in 18kt white gold and the HL 2.2 in 18kt rose gold.

Three Patents for an Exceptional Timepiece

: the first patent concerns the half-trailing hours chain (as opposed to an instant system that is too fast to appreciate, or a dragging system that cannot be read correctly between the hours): every 60 minutes the chain advances in 3-4 seconds without jumps or loss of energy, making it possible to admire the beauty of the movement and its mechanisms in action.

The second patent relates to the regulating organ integrated into the mobile bridge movement. Its constantly changing position, driven by the display, compensates statistically for the effect of gravity, enhancing its precision.

The third patent covers the operation of the movement’s two barrels. The principal barrel is wound by the automatic system and transmits the energy needed to wind a second barrel that is devoted exclusively to driving the complication. It is kept fully wound by the main barrel to ensure that an optimal level of energy is available to change each hour. This means the complex systems are powered independently without affecting the precision of the watch.

The Functioning of the Movement

: when the retrograde minutes hand returns to zero to begin the next hour, the connecting-rod mechanism drives 1 revolution of the system by means of the function star. This is when the mechanical magic of the Hautlence HL 2.0 starts to work:

The mechanisms come to life simultaneously, powered by the energy in the complication barrel. The speed control that allows the chain links to advance the hours in 3-4 seconds begins to function and completes 48 revolutions at high speed (as opposed to instantly). The half-trailing hours display advances one revolution powered by the system’s gear train. A coupler transmits the kinematics of the chain to the mobile bridge movement incorporating the regulating organ, which rotates through 60°.

The kinematics of the full HL 2.0 movement are structured in three dimensions by the use of special bevelled gears. These bevelled gears are produced with uniquely shaped tools to achieve optimal efficiency in gear-train transmission.

This timepiece also includes a power-reserve indicator as well as an oscillating weight in 18-carat gold. All numerals and indicators are luminescent to ensure excellent readability at night.

Technical Specifications

Display: Hours, retrograde minutes and power reserve.

Caliber: 2 barrels: one finishing barrel (power reserve for the entire watch movement including power for the second barrel) and a complication barrel.
Hours displayed by a 12-link chain hinged on a pallet system. The speed regulator ensures that the hours display changes in 3-4 seconds instead of instantly. It completes 48 revolutions at each hour change. Hours system activated by a one-revolution mechanism composed principally of a connecting rod and rack. Mobile bridge movement comprises the regulating organ and rotates through 60° at each change of hour.
Movement kinematics incorporate 90° changes of direction by means of special bevelled gears.

Automatic movement with oscillating weight in 18-carat white gold.
Identification and numbering plate: HL 2.1
Dimensions of the movement: 37.8 mm x 33.2 mm x 12.35 mm
Number of components: 552
Number of jewels: 92
Regulating organ: 18,000 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: 45 hours
Finishing: fine-watchmaking type (satin-brushed, hand-drawn, hand-bevelled, ruthenium-anthracite coating and polished-blocked steel elements).
Manufacturing technology: multi-axis micro-machining, wire electro-erosion.
LIGA photolithography.

Case: 18kt white or rose gold
Dimensions: 50 mm x 42 mm x 17.8 mm
Crystal: 3 three-dimensional sapphire crystals, scratch-resistant, produced by multi-axis grinding.
Alternating finishes: sand-blasting, satin-brushing and hand-polishing.
Crown: 18kt gold with micro-machined Hautlence logo.
Horns: screwed, 18kt gold. Horn and case-back screws: 18kt gold. Weight: 192 grammes

Dial: Ruthenium and rhodium-plated, black numerals and luminescent dots for readability in the dark. Hour numerals: rhodium-plated with luminescent numbers.
Minutes hand: rhodium-plated with a luminescent tip for readability in the dark.
Power-reserve hand: steel with luminescent indicator.

Strap: Brown or black Louisiana alligator skin, large square scales, full wrapped, hand-stitched.
Spring bar for changing the strap.

Folding buckle: titanium and 18-carat white gold

Water-Resistance to 30 meters.

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Breitling Colt 33

A bunch of Breitlings, with colours for everyone (assuming you’re not a a quartzaphobe that is).

The Colt 33 is so called due to its diminutive 33mm size.

It comes in stainless steel, has an AR coated sapphire crystal and water resistance to a more than decent 500 meters.

Movement is a quartz Breitling caliber 77.

This is a thermocompensated, COSC-certified chronometer and features an end of life battery indicator.

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Montblanc Nautical Regulator Mono-Pusher Chronograph

Montblanc certainly know how to make some spectacular watches.

You’ll be hard pressed to get your hands on this one though, limited as it is to just 8 pieces.  The lucky few do get a matching clock though!

It’s a 43.5mm piece in  in 18kt rose or white gold. It has double sapphire crystals and is water resistant to 30 meters.

Movement is the manual-wind Montblanc in-house caliber MB M16.30.  This has with 35 jewels, 18,000 vph and a power reserve of 50 hours.

This has a column-wheel chronograph with two timezones, day/night and power reserve indicators.

Love it :-)

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De Bethune 28 ST Tourbillon

Another beautiful De Bethune model, featuring their signature ‘Star Trek’ stylings.

A super-light piece, from silicon and titanium, the 28 ST features both a tourbillon and a jumping seconds mechanism.

The layered dial structure is built around suspension bridges featuring fine lines and multiple decorations serving to elevate the central mechanism.

The bezel is platinum.

Technical Specifications

Functions : hours – minutes – central jumping seconds -Tourbillon with 30-second indication
Movement : Calibre DB2119 – mechanical hand-wound, hand-decorated mainplate, hand-chamfered and polished steel parts.

DB2119 incorporates the major De Bethune technological breakthroughs:
Self-regulating twin barrel* – The barrels are specifically designed to eliminate friction and efficiently transmit a maximum of energy. (* Patents registered by the Manufacture De Bethune)

Silicon/white gold balance wheel* with flat terminal curve – Its exceptional lightness enables this balance wheel to reduce mechanical friction and deliver an ideal inertia/mass ratio. The principle of the flat end curve, placed on the same level as the balance-spring, compensates for off-centering and facilitates its fastening. (* Patents registered by the Manufacture De Bethune)

De Bethune 30″ silicon/titanium Tourbillon 36,000 vph, the fastest and the lightest on the market, comprising 64 parts weighing 0.18 grams

Silicon escape wheel – Central jumping seconds – Jewelling : 47 jewels – Frequency : 36,000 vibrations per hour – Power reserve: 4 days

Case round shape, 43 mm in diameter, made of mirror-polished grade 5 titanium
Thickness : 12.3 mm – Lugs: floating type* in grade 5 titanium with pivoting system. Their springs follow the shape of the wrist and its movements – Platinum bezel
Glass: sapphire crystal with double glareproofing, 1800 Vickers
Crown: screw-locked at 12 o’clock – adjustable in two positions
Back: solid, hunter-type, in mirror-polished grade 5 titanium, inspired by pocket-watches
Dial: silver-toned with hand-decorated mainplate and bridges, hand-chamfered steel parts, Côtes de Bethune motif – Chapter ring in grained and engraved sterling silver – Linear power-reserve indicator with jewelled bars at 6 o’clock.

Hands: cut-out, mirror-polished, flame-blued steel – Strap: extra-supple alligator leather with pin buckle.

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Raymond Weil Nabucco Cuore Vivo Chronograph

I quite like this: a teasing glimpse of the RW5400 movement beating away inside this Raymond Weil Nabucco Cuore Vivo Chronograph.

I do think the bezel looks a bit out of place though.

Perhaps something simpler would have been better.

What do you think?

A largeish model, at 46mm in matte titanium and polished stainless steel, it has an AR-coated sapphire crystal, a sapphire display back and water resistance to 200 meters.

The aforementioned movement – based on the ETA Valjoux 7753 has 29 jewels, 28,800 vph and a power reserve of 46 hours.

Overall .. thumbs up :-)

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Traser Diver Automatic Blue

A nice solid diver from Traser: the Automatic Blue.

Coming in around the $1000 mark, this is a 45mm piece in stainless steel.

It has a sapphire crystal and is water resistant to 300 meters.

Movement:  an automatic ETA caliber 2824-2 with 25 jewels.

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Movado Bold Titanium

Not super flash in the spec states, but the Movado Bold Titanium does look suitably Blakes 7.

It’s quite a large piece, at 46mm, and comes in either sand-blasted or ion-plated black titanium.

There’s a K1 mineral crystal and water resistance to 100 meters.

Power from a quartz module.  No word on price at this stage.

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