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Eberhard & Co Champion V Chronograph [SIHH 2012]

Meet the Champion V Chronograph.

A very precise 42.8mm piece it’s powered by an ETA 7750 automatic movement.

Sapphire crystal and water resistance to 40 metres.

The dial and bezel come in an assortment of colour combinations. There’s also a choice of straps, including a leather with a buckle personalised ‘E&Co.’, or a steel ‘Chablis’ bracelet.

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Panerai Luminor Tuttonero GMT [SIHH 2012]

Probably my favourite new Panerai from this year’s SIHH event.

This is the PAM 438 – Luminor Tuttonero GMT.

44m in size with a black ceramic case and bracelet.

It is water resistant to 300 meters.

Movement is the Swiss automatic Panerai in-house caliber P.9001/B with 29 jewels, GMT complication and a power reserve of 72 hours.

+1 ;-)

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Répétition Minutes à Rideau [SIHH 2012]

*Sigh* – another one for the ‘when I win the Lotto list’. Where will I put them all? :-)

And another mega-long press release. Happy reading (it’s worth it).

[Press Release] An iconic design with a captivating new interpretation and unparalleled inventiveness – all combined with the highest echelon of watchmaking: marking its 80th anniversary Jaeger-LeCoultre takes the magic of the Reverso watch to new dimensions with the Reverso Répétition Minute à Rideau.

There are few watches that survive the decades through history, and even fewer to be called exceptional. But one watch can claim both to be true for the past 80 years: Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ingenious Reverso watch. With its fascinating swivel case the Reverso truly can be called an icon of watchmaking.

At its 80th anniversary the new Reverso Répétition Minutes à Rideau demonstrates that this watch has
lost nothing of its lustre and that the watchmakers of the Grande Maison have taken the mesmerizing touch of the legendary reversible case to new dimensions.

This new timepiece is available in two limited editions: the 75-piece Reverso Répétition Minutes à Rideau; and the 8-piece Reverso Répétition Minutes à Rideau Venise featuring a dial and bridges in blue gold.

The Reverso Répétition Minutes à Rideau is the latest interpretation, a minute repeater watch that is driven by an artfully executed Venetian blind covering the dial, that upon being slid back activates the repeater mechanism which in turn sounds the given time counting hours, quarter hours and minutes by the sound of two gongs.

The Reverso Répétition Minutes à Rideau reveals its inner values only upon sliding its Venetian blind to one side. This almost poetic act reveals a culmination of culture and technology unseen in haute horlogerie before: the hour and minute hand of the watch travel gingerly over a minute repeater movement, which is widely acknowledged as the pinnacle of haute horlogerie, built to the highest standards of modern mechanical watchmaking.

Pushing this blind drives a mechanically refined mechanism that activates the melody of the minute repeater through a highly complicated mechanism of teeth, gears and a barrel, containing an amazing 270 parts of its own. Upon release, the curtain slips back into its original position – again hiding the face of the watch. This lavish mechanism, which can rightly be called a complication of its very own, catapults the Reverso Répétition Minutes à Rideau into the highest echelon of watchmaking, placing it right beside traditional grand complications.

But the watch not only incorporates one of the most complex functions, it is also a masterpiece ofteamwork in which the designers were teaming up with the watchmakers, both starting from their own sparkling ideas and ending up in a collaboration to merge their talents. This cooperation is not unlike the one that led to the birth of the Reverso in 1931, as this ingenious reversible case had become reality in the Jaeger workshop in Paris and been married with the finest movement of the LeCoultre Manufacture in the Vallée de Joux. Now, 80 years and 42 movements later, the Reverso presents itself as youthful as ever, with its unique design code, which took its roots in the thriving time of Art Deco, carefully preserved and adjusted. And meanwhile it has lost nothing of its appeal: the characteristic three stripes or “gadroons”, the rectangular swivel case and its beautifully rounded sides, as well as the perfect sliding operation if one turns the case in its chassis.

But for its anniversary the watch has gained even more momentum, distilling the best of all its predecessors in one case: a highly renowned movement of the most complex mechanism in watchmaking and the poetic swivel case made even more intricate with its added extra magic. For its 80th birthday this new timepiece has come full circle – and is more resolutely Reverso than ever.

Let’s lift the curtain and take a close view at this exceptionable piece of high horology that combines the best in tradition with the latest in mechanical watchmaking, all embedded in a truly magical design.

(more…)

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Panerai Radiomir California 3 Days [SIHH 2012]

Interesting combination of numeral styles on the Panerai California.

This is a 47mm piece, in stainless steel.

It has an AR-coated sapphire crystal, a sapphire display back, and is water resistant to 100 meters.

Movement is the manual-wind Panerai caliber P.3000 with 21 jewels, 21,600 vph and a power reserve of 3 days.

Nice :-)

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Richard Mille Tourbillon Skull RM052 [SIHH 2012]

Completely and utterly mad, but I love this :-)

Only 15 will be made in Titanium and 6 in Rose or White Gold.

Who do I have to kill / sleep with to get one? ;-)

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Girard-Perregaux Laureato Tourbillon With Three Bridges [SIHH 2012]

[Press Release] Despite its complexity, the tourbillon successfully returns to the origins of watchmaking complications, which have been created by Girard-Perregaux for over 220 years. During the first half of the 19th century, the watchmaker Constant Girard-Perregaux carried out research in order to produce a high-quality tourbillon escapement.

In 1860 its first incarnation won first prize at the Neuchâtel Observatory. It was fitted with a tourbillon movement and a barrel positioned under three parallel bridges. The three bridges then took the form of arrows and were made from gold. In 1889, Girard-Perregaux presented its Tourbillon with three gold Bridges at the Universal Exhibition in Paris, and was rewarded with a gold medal.

Girard-Perregaux revisits this heritage with the Laureato Tourbillon, an alliance of innovation and tradition. Although it looks to the future, it still carries within it the essence of the Girard-Perregaux tradition and is a successful example of the Manufacture’s continuing efforts in favour of respect for the highest technical demands and the most beautiful interpretations of time.

Steeped in history, the Laureato Tourbillon with three Bridges also draws its aesthetic origins from the style of the 1970s. Its strong, bold, contemporary design sets it apart from its peers. Its octagonal platinum bezel alternates satin-brushed and polished finishes to powerful effect. Its case-back, closed with six screws with a sapphire crystal, offers an extraordinary view of the movement. On the front, the guilloché circular mainplate is topped with sporty luminescent baton-shaped hands that impose their assertive character in this area entirely dedicated to transparency.

Designed to eliminate imprecisions caused by the negative attraction of the earth’s gravitational pull, the tourbillon, which performs one rotation per minute around its axis, has become a Girard-Perregaux speciality over the last 150 years. The Manufacture has taken the liberty of creating a unique spectacle, showcasing its creativity and passion in an eminently architectural interpretation. The nobility of such a feat is displayed in the three blue spinel bridges whose translucent, airy personality perfectly accompanies the ethereal ballet of the tourbillon mechanism. The tribute to Constant Girard-Perregaux who introduced the first structure is vibrant.

Mystery and transparency, technical and artistic genius: the three bridges adopt a classic design that highlights the beauty of the tourbillon: at 12 o’clock for the barrel bridge, in the centre for the central bridge and at 6 o’clock for the tourbillon bridge. They offer an unobstructed view of the Girard-Perregaux Manufacture mechanical movement with automatic winding.

With its 72 components weighing approximately 0.3 grammes, the tourbillon represents technical and aesthetic perfection. Meticulously decorated, all the parts respect the sophistication of the piece. The upper and lower frames are chamfered and polished by hand, the frame is balanced with gold regulating screws, the escapement and lever bridges are chamfered and polished by hand.

The tiniest details of the 241 components of the movement are eye-catchingly beautiful. The balance spring is equipped with a Philips terminal curve; the rhodium-plated mainplate has a circular guilloché top, a circular-grained and circular guilloché underside as well as hand-polished angles; the barrel has a hand-engraved circular-grained openwork cover, circular-grained underside and hand-polished angles; the gear-train bridge is ennobled with hand-polished re-entrant angles, circular guilloché, hand-polished recesses and an eagle crest, the Girard-Perregaux signature.

This work of art obeys only the laws of boldness, perfection and mechanical challenge. Limited edition of 10 copies, delivered with an integrated metal bracelet with H-shaped links, water-resistant to 30 metres, the Laureato Tourbillon with three Bridges transcends the qualities of the tourbillon. It symbolises all the expertise of a brand that for over 220 years has been combining tradition and craftsmanship with excellence.

Technical Specifications

  • Titanium case, vertical satin-brushed finish, with anti-reflective sapphire crystal
  • Bezel: octagonal, platinum, circular satin-brushed finish
  • Case-back: closed with 6 screws with anti-reflective sapphire crystal and hand-engraved individual number
  • Dimensions: 42.60 mm
  • Water resistance: 30 metres
  • Crown: rhodium-plated white gold with engraved GP logo
  • Hands: “baton” type, diamond-polished and luminescent
  • Girard-Perregaux 9600-0004 movement
  • Mechanical with automatic winding
  • Functions: Tourbillon, hours, minutes, small seconds on the Tourbillon
  • Dimensions: 12¼”’ – 28.60 mm
  • Total height: 6.54 mm
  • Number of components: 241
  • Jewels: 31
  • Power reserve: minimum 48 hours
  • Winding: automatic, platinum micro-rotor co-axial to the barrel
  • Frequency: 21,600 vibrations / hour (3 Hz)
  • Balance wheel: variable inertia with gold regulating screws (diameter: 8.35 mm)
  • Balance spring: Philips terminal curve
  • Mainplate: rhodium-plated, circular guilloché top, circular-grained and circular guilloché underside, hand-polished angles
  • Barrel: openwork cover, hand-engraved and circular-grained, circular-grained underside. Hand-polished angles
  • Bridges: barrel, centre and tourbillon in spinels, gold settings with the exposed parts polished and the surfaces hand-circular-grained. 2 flat-head screws per bridge
  • Gear-train bridge: hand-polished re-entrant angles, circular guilloché and hand-polished recess, GP eagle decoration
  • Tourbillon: 72 components, 0.3 g, one rotation per minute, upper and lower frames circular-grained and polished by hand, balanced with gold regulating screws, escapement and pallet bridges and lever bridge circular-grained and polished by hand
  • Titanium bracelet, central links with horizontal satin-brushed finish and H-shaped external links with vertical satin-brushed finish
  • Clasp: folding, titanium, with GP logo engraved
  • Numbered, limited edition of 10 pieces
  • Reference 99071-27-001-21A
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Roger Dubuis Excalibur Skeleton Double Flying [SIHH 2012]

Now that’s what you call a ‘skeleton’ watch!

An 88 piece limited edition from Roger Dubuis.

[Press Release] Power, lightness and transparency: this is the triple register in which the new Excalibur Skeleton Double Flying watch in black titanium from ROGER DUBUIS plays its role. This exceptional timepiece is presented for the first time in a “full black” titanium case with a 45 mm diameter, water-resistant to 5 bar (50 metres): a very technical exterior in keeping with the image of the mechanism it houses.
The ROGER DUBUIS Manufacture set off the new craze for skeleton movements back in 2005. It has now given them a totally new dimension by developing skeleton movements with a modern appearance, that is more ethereal and more audacious than before. In parallel to this, the Genevan watchmaker has also devoted its attention to the most emblematic of all watch complications: the Tourbillon. The purpose of this complication is to compensate for the effects of gravity so as to ensure that watches operate more efficiently. ROGER DUBUIS has gone a step further by developing a Double Tourbillon with differential to provide even greater reliability. This is an exercise in high-level watchmaking acrobatics designed to ensure optimal performance.

The skeleton double flying tourbillon movement, treated in grey anthracite, operates the latest arrival in the Excalibur Collection, the RD01SQ calibre, that carries within it an important part of the identity of the Genevan watchmaker’s movements. It incorporates two signature devices characteristic of ROGER DUBUIS, the double flying tourbillon and the skeleton. This hand-wound mechanical skeleton movement has 319 parts and beats at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (2 x 3 Hz) for a power reserve of 48 hours.

Proposed in a limited edition of 88 pieces, the Excalibur Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon watch in black titanium is delivered with a hand-sewn black alligator-skin strap with an adjustable folding buckle in titanium.

Like all models produced by the Genevan watchmaker ROGER DUBUIS, the Excalibur Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon model in black titanium complies with all the latest requirements for the “Poinçon de Genève”. This mark of quality, issued by the Canton of Geneva to a small number of manufacturers, represents an official guarantee that the watch and its functions operate correctly. It also certifies that its mechanical watch movement is made by hand, assembled and regulated in Geneva and that it complies with the strict requirements laid down for the watch manufacture. Roger Dubuis is the only watch Manufacture to produce 100% of its movements in accordance with the criteria of the “Poinçon de Genève”.

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Van Cleef & Arpels Poetic Wish [SIHH 2012]

I do like Van Cleef & Arpels ‘whimsical’ pieces. Of course I’m far too manly to wear one (*cough*) but that doesn’t mean my inner feminine side can’t appreciate them :-)

[Press Release] Their wishes may have met. What did they say to each other? That is up to our imagination…

This is the magic of Van Cleef & Arpels’ Poetry of TimeTM: creating watches that are full of emotion, that tell a story and invite us into a dreamlike world.

They also offer the chance for the wearer or the giver of these remarkable timepieces to listen to his or her heart’s desire and make a wish, no matter how secret.

Lady Arpels Poetic Wish watch

The Eiffel Tower is in white gold. It is outlined on the dial to depict Paris seen from the sky. A changing sky, which those who love the City of Lights know well.

Mother-of-pearl clouds cast their shadow on the Seine’s waters, represented by delicate miniature painting.

At the centre of the dial are the towers of Notre-Dame Cathedral, another symbol of the French capital. And that is precisely where the young girl, who is standing on the ! rst ” oor terrace of the Eiffel Tower, is looking.

The scene becomes animated on demand; the girl steps to the centre of the dial to the rhythm of the Notre-Dame’s bells, sending a wish to the cathedral in the distance. Is someone waiting for her there?

A kite appears, in time to carry the wish to the île de la Cité; it advances minute by minute, note by note.

The watch case is in white gold set with diamonds of D E F colour and VVS clarity, in keeping with the great jewellery tradition of the Maison Van Cleef & Arpels.

The bracelet is made of two materials: a pearl grey moiré silk and calfskin leather.

Midnight Poetic Wish watch

A young man is standing at the top of the towers of Notre-Dame Cathedral. It is dusk and the last rays of sunshine light up the stained-glass windows of the cathedral. The young man slowly steps out onto the terrace of the tower to the rhythm of Notre-Dame’s ringing bells.

The scene is animated on demand and a diamond shooting star appears. The star is the messenger of the young man’s wish, carrying it towards the Eiffel Tower, minute by minute, note by note.

The watch case is in white gold. The bracelet is made of two materials: alligator “clair de lune” skin and calf suede.

Each of these precious timepieces has required hundreds of hours of work to complete. On their dials, the technical prowess of the master watchmakers is enhanced by the virtuosity of the artistic craftsmanship: the sculptors, painters and jewellers.

A Precious Box

Each Poetic Wish timepiece is presented in its own extraordinary cabinet made of precious woods and mother-of-pearl inlay.

The boxes tell the story of the Poetic Wish and, when they are put together, the young lovers are re-united.

The cabinet’s interiors have been conceived following the tradition of stringed- instrument makers so as to enhance the sound of the Poetic ComplicationsTM.

The watch, placed in its customised box, becomes a collector’s piece.

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Vacheron Constantin Malte Tourbillon [SIHH 2012]

[Press Release] The new Malte collection celebrating 100 years of the tonneau shape at Vacheron Constantin, simply could not ignore the most iconic of all horological complications: the tourbillon. A perfect embodiment of the expertise of the master-watchmakers of the Manufacture, the tourbillon serves to compensate for the effects of gravity on timepieces.
Vacheron Constantin has long since demonstrated its know-how in the field of the tourbillon movement. Often associated with another complications, the tourbillons from the Geneva-based manufacturer reveal remarkable know-how and undeniable audacity. It is in this spirit that Vacheron Constantin offers a new interpretation of this stunning complication in keeping with the classic style and elegance inherent to this anniversary collection.

On a pure, restrained dial featuring pink gold hour-markers and Roman numerals for the 6 and 12 o’clock indications, the tourbillon bearing the seconds hand finds its natural place, perfectly integrated within the new and refined lines of the Malte collection. Its positioning at 6 o’clock calls requires slightly offsetting the axis of the hour and minute hands which thereby stand out above their beating heart.

The Malte Tourbillon timepiece – the largest in the collection – has a curving 18K pink gold case measuring 38 x 48.2 mm and is fitted with a brown Mississippiensis alligator leather strap complete with Maltese cross-shaped rose gold folding clasp.

Such an exceptional watch deserved an equally exceptional movement, and this model is duly equipped with mechanical hand-wound Calibre 2795, comprising 246 parts, beating at a frequency of 2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour) and endowed with an almost two-day power reserve.

This new tonneau-shaped movement – making a perfect fit with the case – is entirely developed and crafted within the Manufacture. The tourbillon carriage is inspired by the brand’s signature Maltese cross, and magnificently showcases the exceptional level of finishing of each movement part, including a number of naturally hand-bevelled interior angles.

The rounding off of the tourbillon bar, which always represents a significant technical challenge, calls for over 11 hours of manual work in order to meet the finishing criteria demanded by Vacheron Constantin. Rounding off consists of filing each end of the arms in order to give them a conical or semi-cylindrical shape, while respecting the limits of the centre and the heels. To finalise this operation, the craftsmen rub it down with stones, buffs, wooden pegs and finishing pastes in order to achieve a perfectly polished effect.

The Malte Tourbillon model also meets the new criteria of the Hallmark of Geneva. Instated in 1886 by the Grand Council of the Republic and Canton of Geneva, the Hallmark of Geneva is a guarantee of origin, of craftsmanship, of durability and of expertise. This unique quality label has just undergone a fundamental transformation, since the certification no longer concerns the calibre alone, but the timepiece as a whole. This new approach represents a major evolution of this independent certification that has enjoyed the longstanding support of Vacheron Constantin and which has just decided to respond more fully than ever before to the legitimate expectations of an ever more informed clientele.

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Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Contemporain [SIHH 2012]

GF: “Hey. Psst.  Harry Winston!”

HW: “Yes?”

GF: “This .. is how you do it!”

*smack*

Greubel Forsey’s limited edition 33 piece ’24 Secondes Contemporain’ comes in a 43.5mm platinum case. It features sapphire crystals – front and rear – is water resistant to 30 meters and wears a blue alligator strap with platinum folding clasp.

The beautiful movement is made up of 267 components – 88 for the 0.39 gram tourbillon cage. This is powered by two coaxial mainspring barrels in series that provide a power reserve of 72 hours.

The oscillator features a variable inertia balance with Phillips terminal curve beating at 3Hz / 21,600 aph.

The tourbillon bridge is transparent synthetic sapphire while the tourbillon cage is in titanium. The hour and minute dial is in synthetic sapphire while small seconds dial and power reserve indicator are in gold.

Beautiful!

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