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De Bethune 28 ST Tourbillon

Another beautiful De Bethune model, featuring their signature ‘Star Trek’ stylings.

A super-light piece, from silicon and titanium, the 28 ST features both a tourbillon and a jumping seconds mechanism.

The layered dial structure is built around suspension bridges featuring fine lines and multiple decorations serving to elevate the central mechanism.

The bezel is platinum.

Technical Specifications

Functions : hours – minutes – central jumping seconds -Tourbillon with 30-second indication
Movement : Calibre DB2119 – mechanical hand-wound, hand-decorated mainplate, hand-chamfered and polished steel parts.

DB2119 incorporates the major De Bethune technological breakthroughs:
Self-regulating twin barrel* – The barrels are specifically designed to eliminate friction and efficiently transmit a maximum of energy. (* Patents registered by the Manufacture De Bethune)

Silicon/white gold balance wheel* with flat terminal curve – Its exceptional lightness enables this balance wheel to reduce mechanical friction and deliver an ideal inertia/mass ratio. The principle of the flat end curve, placed on the same level as the balance-spring, compensates for off-centering and facilitates its fastening. (* Patents registered by the Manufacture De Bethune)

De Bethune 30″ silicon/titanium Tourbillon 36,000 vph, the fastest and the lightest on the market, comprising 64 parts weighing 0.18 grams

Silicon escape wheel – Central jumping seconds – Jewelling : 47 jewels – Frequency : 36,000 vibrations per hour – Power reserve: 4 days

Case round shape, 43 mm in diameter, made of mirror-polished grade 5 titanium
Thickness : 12.3 mm – Lugs: floating type* in grade 5 titanium with pivoting system. Their springs follow the shape of the wrist and its movements – Platinum bezel
Glass: sapphire crystal with double glareproofing, 1800 Vickers
Crown: screw-locked at 12 o’clock – adjustable in two positions
Back: solid, hunter-type, in mirror-polished grade 5 titanium, inspired by pocket-watches
Dial: silver-toned with hand-decorated mainplate and bridges, hand-chamfered steel parts, Côtes de Bethune motif – Chapter ring in grained and engraved sterling silver – Linear power-reserve indicator with jewelled bars at 6 o’clock.

Hands: cut-out, mirror-polished, flame-blued steel – Strap: extra-supple alligator leather with pin buckle.

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Epos Flying Tourbillon [Baselworld 2012]

Only 10 Epos Flying Tourbillons up for grabs – so get in quick :-)

A 44mm piece in 18kt rose gold, it features double sapphire crystals and water resistance to 50 meters.

Movement is the hand-wound STT 13.21-71-002.

This is set with genuine diamonds, decorated with hand engraved flower-motives and blued steel screws.

It has an impressive 110 hours of power reserve and a one minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock.

Looks great too!

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Breguet Tradition 7047 Tourbillon Fusee [Baselworld 2012]

You wouldn’t expect anything less than a beautiful watch from Breguet, and that’s exactly what they’ve delivered with the updated 7047 Tourbillon Fusee.

This 2012 model now comes in a 41mm 18kt rose gold case.

It has double sapphire crystals and water resistance to 30 meters.

The movement is the manual-wind Breguet caliber 569 complete with tourbillon, 43 jewels and a power reserve of 50 hours.

This features: anthracite coating; constant torque thanks to the fusee and chain transmission; titanium upper bridge with Breguet type tourbillon bar; straight-line Swiss lever escapement; Breguet titanium balance with four gold adjustment screws and Breguet silicon balance spring.

Phew!

Reference #s are 7047BR/R9/9Z.

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Sea-Gull Tourbillon [Baselworld 2012]

Baselworld may be dominated by the big names from Switzerland and Germany, but there are plenty of smaller manufacturers showing their wares too.

Well represented are the Chinese brands – and we’re not talking $5 market stall quartz specials.

Sea-Gull (not sure about the hyphen!) are presenting their hand-wound Tourbillon model (ref. 118.860).

It comes in an 18kt Rose Gold Case with double sapphire crystals.

Looks alright, doesn’t it?

Being picky, the hands seem to have shrunk in the wash though :-)

No word on pricing or availability at this stage.

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Antoine Preziuso Grand Tourbillon Sport GTS [Baselworld 2012]

There’s kind of a sting in the tail with this one – albeit a luxury sting!

More on that in a bit.

The Antoine Preziuso Grand Tourbillon Sport GTS is a biggun’ at 52mm.

It’s made from the unusual combination – for a watch – of cobalt and chromium alloy.

Makes it very strong apparently.

The movement is a hand-wound caliber APG/28T unit. This has 19 jewels and a power reserve of 110 hours.

You get a sapphire crystal on the front and back and water resistance to 30 meters.

The watch comes wearing a black crocodile strap with red stitching and a folding clasp.

And the ‘sting’?

Well, just a soft one: you can only pick this one up in Geneva.

The saving grace may be that the price of purchase also includes a business class flight and a couple of nights in a hotel to allow you to do so.

Not sure about you, but I think I’d rather they sold it over here and save me the extra dough! :-)

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Richard Mille Tourbillon Skull RM052 [SIHH 2012]

Completely and utterly mad, but I love this :-)

Only 15 will be made in Titanium and 6 in Rose or White Gold.

Who do I have to kill / sleep with to get one? ;-)

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Girard-Perregaux Laureato Tourbillon With Three Bridges [SIHH 2012]

[Press Release] Despite its complexity, the tourbillon successfully returns to the origins of watchmaking complications, which have been created by Girard-Perregaux for over 220 years. During the first half of the 19th century, the watchmaker Constant Girard-Perregaux carried out research in order to produce a high-quality tourbillon escapement.

In 1860 its first incarnation won first prize at the Neuchâtel Observatory. It was fitted with a tourbillon movement and a barrel positioned under three parallel bridges. The three bridges then took the form of arrows and were made from gold. In 1889, Girard-Perregaux presented its Tourbillon with three gold Bridges at the Universal Exhibition in Paris, and was rewarded with a gold medal.

Girard-Perregaux revisits this heritage with the Laureato Tourbillon, an alliance of innovation and tradition. Although it looks to the future, it still carries within it the essence of the Girard-Perregaux tradition and is a successful example of the Manufacture’s continuing efforts in favour of respect for the highest technical demands and the most beautiful interpretations of time.

Steeped in history, the Laureato Tourbillon with three Bridges also draws its aesthetic origins from the style of the 1970s. Its strong, bold, contemporary design sets it apart from its peers. Its octagonal platinum bezel alternates satin-brushed and polished finishes to powerful effect. Its case-back, closed with six screws with a sapphire crystal, offers an extraordinary view of the movement. On the front, the guilloché circular mainplate is topped with sporty luminescent baton-shaped hands that impose their assertive character in this area entirely dedicated to transparency.

Designed to eliminate imprecisions caused by the negative attraction of the earth’s gravitational pull, the tourbillon, which performs one rotation per minute around its axis, has become a Girard-Perregaux speciality over the last 150 years. The Manufacture has taken the liberty of creating a unique spectacle, showcasing its creativity and passion in an eminently architectural interpretation. The nobility of such a feat is displayed in the three blue spinel bridges whose translucent, airy personality perfectly accompanies the ethereal ballet of the tourbillon mechanism. The tribute to Constant Girard-Perregaux who introduced the first structure is vibrant.

Mystery and transparency, technical and artistic genius: the three bridges adopt a classic design that highlights the beauty of the tourbillon: at 12 o’clock for the barrel bridge, in the centre for the central bridge and at 6 o’clock for the tourbillon bridge. They offer an unobstructed view of the Girard-Perregaux Manufacture mechanical movement with automatic winding.

With its 72 components weighing approximately 0.3 grammes, the tourbillon represents technical and aesthetic perfection. Meticulously decorated, all the parts respect the sophistication of the piece. The upper and lower frames are chamfered and polished by hand, the frame is balanced with gold regulating screws, the escapement and lever bridges are chamfered and polished by hand.

The tiniest details of the 241 components of the movement are eye-catchingly beautiful. The balance spring is equipped with a Philips terminal curve; the rhodium-plated mainplate has a circular guilloché top, a circular-grained and circular guilloché underside as well as hand-polished angles; the barrel has a hand-engraved circular-grained openwork cover, circular-grained underside and hand-polished angles; the gear-train bridge is ennobled with hand-polished re-entrant angles, circular guilloché, hand-polished recesses and an eagle crest, the Girard-Perregaux signature.

This work of art obeys only the laws of boldness, perfection and mechanical challenge. Limited edition of 10 copies, delivered with an integrated metal bracelet with H-shaped links, water-resistant to 30 metres, the Laureato Tourbillon with three Bridges transcends the qualities of the tourbillon. It symbolises all the expertise of a brand that for over 220 years has been combining tradition and craftsmanship with excellence.

Technical Specifications

  • Titanium case, vertical satin-brushed finish, with anti-reflective sapphire crystal
  • Bezel: octagonal, platinum, circular satin-brushed finish
  • Case-back: closed with 6 screws with anti-reflective sapphire crystal and hand-engraved individual number
  • Dimensions: 42.60 mm
  • Water resistance: 30 metres
  • Crown: rhodium-plated white gold with engraved GP logo
  • Hands: “baton” type, diamond-polished and luminescent
  • Girard-Perregaux 9600-0004 movement
  • Mechanical with automatic winding
  • Functions: Tourbillon, hours, minutes, small seconds on the Tourbillon
  • Dimensions: 12¼”’ – 28.60 mm
  • Total height: 6.54 mm
  • Number of components: 241
  • Jewels: 31
  • Power reserve: minimum 48 hours
  • Winding: automatic, platinum micro-rotor co-axial to the barrel
  • Frequency: 21,600 vibrations / hour (3 Hz)
  • Balance wheel: variable inertia with gold regulating screws (diameter: 8.35 mm)
  • Balance spring: Philips terminal curve
  • Mainplate: rhodium-plated, circular guilloché top, circular-grained and circular guilloché underside, hand-polished angles
  • Barrel: openwork cover, hand-engraved and circular-grained, circular-grained underside. Hand-polished angles
  • Bridges: barrel, centre and tourbillon in spinels, gold settings with the exposed parts polished and the surfaces hand-circular-grained. 2 flat-head screws per bridge
  • Gear-train bridge: hand-polished re-entrant angles, circular guilloché and hand-polished recess, GP eagle decoration
  • Tourbillon: 72 components, 0.3 g, one rotation per minute, upper and lower frames circular-grained and polished by hand, balanced with gold regulating screws, escapement and pallet bridges and lever bridge circular-grained and polished by hand
  • Titanium bracelet, central links with horizontal satin-brushed finish and H-shaped external links with vertical satin-brushed finish
  • Clasp: folding, titanium, with GP logo engraved
  • Numbered, limited edition of 10 pieces
  • Reference 99071-27-001-21A
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Speake-Marin Renaissance Tourbillon Minute Repeater

Speake-Marin’s Renaissance Tourbillon Minute Repeater is severely stunning, don’t you think?

Don’t take my word for it though .. let’s hear from its creator:

“This timepiece represents a fresh start in my work, which is why I named it ‘Renaissance”, elaborates Peter Speake-Marin. “I feel as though I have been on a continual journey of discovery and education that has encompassed my time in antique restoration in London, working on collaborative projects with other brands, and with my own brand in Switzerland.
I wanted to create a timepiece that is, in a sense, a reinvention of my work, that puts much of my previous work together into one watch, reflecting on and bringing back all those elements that makes Speake-Marin what it is, that makes me who I am who I am, while at the same time taking a step forward in the evolution of my craft and of the Speake-Marin brand.”

Synergy of Tourbillon and Minute Repeater
“I wanted to have a tourbillon both because my Foundation Watch features one and because of the way it brings life to the dial. It moves, it’s animated and it’s just beautiful to behold. A tourbillon emphasises the watchmaker’s art ”, says Peter.

“I learned about minute repeaters while restoring them in London and then continued to build modern repeaters as an independent in Switzerland. The ‘London-Geneva’ engraving on Renaissance’s chiming mechanism pays homage to London, where my journey into repeaters began, and continues in Geneva, where the movement is built.

A repeater was a piece of Speake-Marin DNA that I wanted to include not just on a technical level but equally because with the tourbillon there is a wonderful coherence – the visual beauty of the tourbillon complemented by the aural beauty of the repeater.

I designed the back movement bridges so that the whole of the surface of the back of Renaissance is like a canvas where I could fully maximise the possibilities of engraving. It gives me the liberty to be able to explore many different artistic avenues. For myself these unique hand engravings complete Renaissance on both technical and aesthetic levels.
Engravings of this sort are also a classic Speake-Marin element. Many of the early pieces I created were dragon-orientated, working with either Japanese artists or European engravers but often in an Asiatic style and first two Renaissance pieces bear beautiful dragon engravings. Although my style is very gothic, I feel that it complements that type of art well.”

Thank you Peter!

Technical Specifications

  • Every Renaissance Tourbillon Minute Repeater is a unique piece.
  • Features and indications 
Hours, minutes and small seconds (on tourbillon cage)
  • Minute repeater featuring an all-or-nothing mechanism and centrifugal inertia regulator
60-second tourbillon
Each piece features a unique, hand-engraved movement
  • Dial and Hands 
Foundation-style, heat-blued hour and minute hands
Heat-blued second hand on tourbillon cage at 5 o’clock 
Open dial revealing finely-finished movement
  • Movement 
Dimensions: 32.4mm x 5.36mm
Power reserve: 100 hours
Jewels: 29
No. of components: 330
Speake-Marin signature motif topping tool design tourbillon cage
  • Tourbillon cage: 13.59mm
Free-sprung balance
Balance frequency: 21,600vph / 3Hz
Balance diameter: 8.8mm (9.6mm with regulating screws)
Balance inertia: 10mg/cm2
Silicon anchor and escape wheel
Two-hammer minute repeater featuring all-or-nothing mechanism
Speake-Marin bridge design and hand-finishes
  • Unique, hand-engraved motif on back plate
The latter includes “Speake – Marin, Piece Unique Gravée Main”
Minute repeater chime mechanism engraving: “Geneva – London”
  • 
Case and strap 
Iconic Piccadilly design
  • Dimensions: 44.0mm x 11mm
Three-piece case crafted in 18k red gold
  • Two-position Speake-Marin crown
Minute repeater slider on case band at 9 o’clock
  • Sapphire crystal treated with anti-reflective coating
  • Water resistance: 3atm/30m/100′
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Vacheron Constantin Malte Tourbillon [SIHH 2012]

[Press Release] The new Malte collection celebrating 100 years of the tonneau shape at Vacheron Constantin, simply could not ignore the most iconic of all horological complications: the tourbillon. A perfect embodiment of the expertise of the master-watchmakers of the Manufacture, the tourbillon serves to compensate for the effects of gravity on timepieces.
Vacheron Constantin has long since demonstrated its know-how in the field of the tourbillon movement. Often associated with another complications, the tourbillons from the Geneva-based manufacturer reveal remarkable know-how and undeniable audacity. It is in this spirit that Vacheron Constantin offers a new interpretation of this stunning complication in keeping with the classic style and elegance inherent to this anniversary collection.

On a pure, restrained dial featuring pink gold hour-markers and Roman numerals for the 6 and 12 o’clock indications, the tourbillon bearing the seconds hand finds its natural place, perfectly integrated within the new and refined lines of the Malte collection. Its positioning at 6 o’clock calls requires slightly offsetting the axis of the hour and minute hands which thereby stand out above their beating heart.

The Malte Tourbillon timepiece – the largest in the collection – has a curving 18K pink gold case measuring 38 x 48.2 mm and is fitted with a brown Mississippiensis alligator leather strap complete with Maltese cross-shaped rose gold folding clasp.

Such an exceptional watch deserved an equally exceptional movement, and this model is duly equipped with mechanical hand-wound Calibre 2795, comprising 246 parts, beating at a frequency of 2.5 Hz (18,000 vibrations/hour) and endowed with an almost two-day power reserve.

This new tonneau-shaped movement – making a perfect fit with the case – is entirely developed and crafted within the Manufacture. The tourbillon carriage is inspired by the brand’s signature Maltese cross, and magnificently showcases the exceptional level of finishing of each movement part, including a number of naturally hand-bevelled interior angles.

The rounding off of the tourbillon bar, which always represents a significant technical challenge, calls for over 11 hours of manual work in order to meet the finishing criteria demanded by Vacheron Constantin. Rounding off consists of filing each end of the arms in order to give them a conical or semi-cylindrical shape, while respecting the limits of the centre and the heels. To finalise this operation, the craftsmen rub it down with stones, buffs, wooden pegs and finishing pastes in order to achieve a perfectly polished effect.

The Malte Tourbillon model also meets the new criteria of the Hallmark of Geneva. Instated in 1886 by the Grand Council of the Republic and Canton of Geneva, the Hallmark of Geneva is a guarantee of origin, of craftsmanship, of durability and of expertise. This unique quality label has just undergone a fundamental transformation, since the certification no longer concerns the calibre alone, but the timepiece as a whole. This new approach represents a major evolution of this independent certification that has enjoyed the longstanding support of Vacheron Constantin and which has just decided to respond more fully than ever before to the legitimate expectations of an ever more informed clientele.

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Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Contemporain [SIHH 2012]

GF: “Hey. Psst.  Harry Winston!”

HW: “Yes?”

GF: “This .. is how you do it!”

*smack*

Greubel Forsey’s limited edition 33 piece ’24 Secondes Contemporain’ comes in a 43.5mm platinum case. It features sapphire crystals – front and rear – is water resistant to 30 meters and wears a blue alligator strap with platinum folding clasp.

The beautiful movement is made up of 267 components – 88 for the 0.39 gram tourbillon cage. This is powered by two coaxial mainspring barrels in series that provide a power reserve of 72 hours.

The oscillator features a variable inertia balance with Phillips terminal curve beating at 3Hz / 21,600 aph.

The tourbillon bridge is transparent synthetic sapphire while the tourbillon cage is in titanium. The hour and minute dial is in synthetic sapphire while small seconds dial and power reserve indicator are in gold.

Beautiful!

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